Red Rocket Crape Myrtle vs Dynamite Crape Myrtle – Showdown

Which is better in a Red Rocket Crape myrtle vs Dynamite showdown? Both are shrub-like trees from the same Lythraceae family also called crape myrtle or crepe myrtle. Both have a use as hedges and are native to the Mediterranean.

Red Rocket Crape Myrtle vs Dynamite Crape Myrtle – Showdown

Find out who will win the Red Rocket Crape myrtle vs Dynamite showdown, but know that it all comes down to nuances.

Which Tree Is Better: Red Rocket or Dynamite Crape Myrtle?

Red Rocket Dynamite Crepe
USDA zones 6–9 6–10
Preferred light Full sun Full sun
Watering Occasional when established Occasional when established
Flowering time Summer Summer
Uses Urban garden, firescaping, container growing Privacy screen, firescaping, landscaping
Landscape size 20–30 feet tall and wide 15–25 feet tall and wide
Latin name Lagerstroemia indica ‘Whit IV’ Lagerstroemia indica  ‘Whit II’
Flower color Cherry red True red
Bark color Nondescript tan Light beige
Patented Yes Yes

Dynamite Crape Myrtle Characteristics Plant America

Similarities Between Red Rocket and Dynamite Crape Myrtle

Both Red Rocket and Dynamite Crape myrtle belong to the same family. This family, Lagerstroemia, has been used in landscaping in the US for 150 years.

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Red Rocket Crape Myrtle Details Plant America

Other Plants in the Same Family Are:

  • 1. Lagerstroemia fauriei
  • 2. Lagerstroemia subcostata
  • 3. Lagerstroemia limii

By breeding those plants with one another, breeders have made many types of the Crape myrtle. Two of those types are Red Rocket and Dynamite. They are very similar but not identical. Where they differ are nuances you have to ask the vendor about.

Each Red Rocket Crape myrtle and Dynamite plant has its own attributes. You should first figure out what you want the crape myrtle for. Then, learn what an ideal crape myrtle variety is like. Finally, contact the vendor and ask for specific attributes to see which one fits better.

Leaves of Red Rocket and Dynamite Crape Myrtle

On Red Rocket and Dynamite Crape myrtle, leaves are spoon-shaped or rounded. They average three inches in length.

In the spring, leaves of both types have a red tinge and by summer they turn dark green. In North Florida and further north, foliage often turns yellow, orange, and red. This happens in autumn. Some types can grow twice a year, producing bronze or burgundy foliage.

By winter, the leaves fall off, turning both types into living statues. The form of the tree is gnarly and sinuous but attractive. Their bark is smooth, making them a year-round landscaping favorite.

Flowers of Red Rocket and Dynamite Crape Myrtle

Petals of Dynamite Crape myrtle trees and Red Crape myrtle varieties resemble crepes. Their crinkled look is what inspired the name. Flowers bloom from late spring to fall in clusters of flowers known as “panicles.” They can be 6–18 inches in size and have hundreds of 1–2 inch flowers.

True red panicles are a relatively recent crape myrtle attribute.

About the Bark of Red Rocket and Dynamite Crape Myrtle

Crape myrtles shed their bark and that’s normal. Some people even like the bark-shedding process. Once the bark sheds, there is a new layer of bark beneath. It’s often of a different color, which adds more variety to the crape myrtle.

 

You don’t have to treat or worry about a shedding crapemyrtle. Enjoy the warm colors that appear.

They can change as time goes on and can be:

  • cream
  • warm beige
  • cinnamon
  • bright red
  • green-gray
  • dark red

When the bark starts falling away, you can pull it off by hand. It will come off in long strips. One theory says trees do this bark-shedding to shake off pests. If you believe that your Crepe Myrtle might have a bark scale, use some neem oil.

Requirements of Red Rocket and Dynamite Crepe Myrtle

Crape myrtles tolerate Florida-like conditions well. They can tolerate droughts and poor soil well. Available water and fertilizer limit the Red Rocket Crape Myrtle growth rate. If you can provide both to your crape myrtle, you will get lush growth.

Crape myrtles do not tolerate salt. Don’t irrigate them with saltwater. If you plant them near a coast, protect them from salt spray and other salt influences. Avoid wet soil or the plant may grow poorly.

Find loamy, slightly acidic soils with 5–6.5 pH. Place a crape myrtle weak to powdery mildew where the air flows. Full sun makes a crape myrtle bloom fully and makes its crown symmetrical.

Pruning

Avoid pruning your crape myrtle too much. Pick the best possible fit for your intended use. Otherwise, excessive pruning can make your crape myrtle stunted. Prune after the leaves fall off when you can see the tree shape.

Pruning too early in the fall may cause a second growth. If the first freeze hits this second growth, the plant is in trouble. Don’t do any frequent or annual hard pruning; you may prune old panicles to promote a second bloom. This might not be practical for you if the plant is too big, though. If you notice a natural second bloom, forget about this kind of pruning.

Dwarf types of crape myrtles sometimes produce tall shoots. Remove them or your dwarf ground cover will ruin the vista. If you notice these shoots falling on the ground, remove them in the spring.

Planting of Red Rocket and Dynamite Crepe Myrtle

It’s easy to plant or transplant either type. The best time for planting is in early summer when both types have their growth spurt. Mulch up to three inches deep.

Irrigate the newly planted Crape myrtles for the first few weeks. You’ll aid their establishment that way. If you’re planting a tree whose trunk is larger than one inch, irrigate for a few months. As it grows, crape myrtle roots will extend its roots into nearby lawns for nutrients.

If you want a small tree, you should remove the smallest stems. Leave 1–5 stems, depending on if you want a single-trunk or a multi-trunk tree. You will notice water sprouts from roots or the main stems. Remove these too, together with any twiggy growth on shrubs that appear prone to diseases.

Pests of Red Rocket and Dynamite Crepe Myrtle

Powdery mildew is the most dangerous pest of Crape myrtles. This fungus favors shady, wet, and cool conditions and appears as a whitish powder. The mildew stunts crape myrtle growth and blooming, appearing in spring and autumn. There is no cure for the mildew except by planting a resistant crape myrtle type. If you have mealybugs to your Crape myrtle it is a totally solvable issue.

The Crape myrtle aphid (Tinocallis kahawaluokalani) is a pale yellow, tiny bug. It feeds exclusively on crape myrtles, sucking sap from their leaves. They can easily overwhelm the plant and suck it dry. Curb their growth by spraying insecticides and natural oils.

Aphids’ feeding can produce a sugary liquid known as “honeydew.” It draws in the sooty mold fungus (Capnodium), which appears as black stains on stems and leaves. It’s not as dangerous as mildew but can stunt growth. Curb it with insecticides and oils, such as neem oil.

Landscaping Uses of Red Rocket and Dynamite

Crape myrtle plants are by far the most versatile landscaping plants.

You can use them as:

  • plants in hanging baskets
  • large perennial bedding plants
  • shrubs
  • groundcovers
  • container plants
  • small trees
  • medium trees

Multi- or single-stemmed Crape myrtle varieties are great for giving shade. Place them near patios, entrances, and walkways. You can also use them as flowering specimen trees. Plant groups of shrub form as an accent in a shrub border.

Dwarf varieties serve as big ground covers or container plants to spruce up the view. These are the perfect kind of crape myrtle for hanging baskets. Whatever you choose, plant evergreens in the background for contrast. Dark mulches or ground covers also highlight crape myrtle bark and trunk beauty.

Propagation of Red Rocket and Dynamite Crape Myrtle

You can propagate crape myrtles by:

  • softwood
  • semi-hardwood
  • hardwood
  • root cuttings

propagate crape myrtles Plant America

The first two root with ease if you take them in spring or summer. Hardwood cuttings also root easily if taken from dormant plants. Root cuttings fare the worst. Dig them in early spring and plant them in a greenhouse to boost their chances.

Collect, dry, and store seed capsules that ripen in the autumn. You don’t have to pre-treat the seeds; they will germinate within 20 days after sowing. Sow them during spring, when the days start to lengthen. The plants you get out of seeds will vary by a big margin.

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